Short Term Storage

If your car is to be stored for shorter periods of time, for example 2 to 6 weeks, then the list of things to do to protect it is relatively short.

-It would be wise to start and run the car at least once a week, preferably around the block to warm and circulate the fluids in the engine, transmission and differential. This also allows the brakes to move and will relocate the tires to a new spot.  Since a very large part of engine wear happens on start up when oil has drained away from moving parts, the more often the car starts the more likely it is that parts will have a film of lubrication left on them.

-Changing to synthetic oil is a good plan, as it tends to provide better protection to your engine.  The extra cost is worth it.

-Another good idea is to invest in a battery trickle charger. These little chargers have auto-shutoff circuits so they will not overcharge the battery but will prevent total discharge of the cells, which will shorten the life of the battery by a large margin.

Long  Term Storage

Long term is considered about 6 weeks and longer with the car not running.  For long-term storage you should consider the following:

• Exterior – Wash and wax the exterior prior to storage.
• Interior – Clean the interior. Place a desiccant and/or heat source (such as a trouble light) in the car to keep humidity low. However, the heat also attracts rodents.
• Rodent repellants – Rodents seem to love to take up residence in stored cars and can cause serious damage. Ultrasonic repellers seem to help keep rodents away. Insects are also pests that can cause damage. Check with a local pest control expert for advice.
• Wheels off ground – Take the load off the tires and suspension by putting the car up on jack stands. The emergency brake should be off and the car in Neutral for standard transmissions and Park for automatics.
• Oil change – use a fresh filter and oil to remove corrosive elements
• Oil the cylinders – Pull the spark plug from each cylinder and squirt a teaspoon of oil into each of them. It is important to check with the manufacturer for the proper procedures to turn the engine over without damaging the ignition system or injuring yourself! After oiling loosely refit the spark plugs.
  • Before trying to start the engine again, remove the plugs and turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil again, and then install the plugs and start the motor. Again, ensure you follow the proper procedures as severe injury can result from the high voltage systems in newer car ignitions
• Battery – disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a battery tender to keep the battery fully charged.
• Car cover – There are dozens of car covers on the market. Purchase one only after reading what they protect against. Some are only for UV protection and may not be waterproof. Others may trap moisture and promote rust and corrosion.
• Vacuum seals – These are the ultimate car covers that seal the car from the outside world. Check the claims and guarantee carefully to see if they are right for your situation.

Following these steps will help your pride-and-joy roll smoothly out of the garage and back on the streets. (more…)

Many people get stuck and sometimes hurt in the fall and winter because they have failed to plan for the seasonal changes that occur. Here are most, if not all, of the items to check in and on your car before the weather turns from balmy to frosty.

1.  Windshield washer fluids need to be rated for below freezing temperatures. This is easy to spot on the bottles. Generally the pink ones are for summer driving and the blue ones are for the winter. They also usually have a rated temperature; the blue ones listed down to well below freezing (usually -40 Celsius or Fahrenheit).  Check the predicted lowest temperature you are likely to encounter and purchase accordingly.

2.  Wiper blades should be replaced regularly. Six to twelve months is usual. You may wish to buy “snowblades” which have rubber boots around the blade holders. These do not load up with ice as readily and therefore provide better visibility.

3.  Oil changes should be considered, especially if your car is older and uses a higher viscosity oil in the summer. These summer oils do not flow well in cold temperatures and will make starting your car harder. Winter oils are lower viscosity-typically zero to 30 weight. Summer oils are 30 to 50 weight range.

4.  Tires should also match the conditions you will be driving through. If you expect some light snowy conditions for part of your winter, all season tires are a good choice. They are not as noisy on the road as full snow tires and can be left on the car all year round. If, however, you expect months of heavier snowfall then full mud and snow (M&S) rated tires are really what you need. These tires wear out more quickly on dry or wet roads but provide superior traction and stopping power on snow and ice. Be aware that chains are required for winter travel in some locations so plan and purchase accordingly.

5.  Exterior lights need to be checked. Ensure they all work including high beams and four way flashers.

6.  Protect the outside of your car with a good coat of wax. This saves the paint and makes it easier to remove road grime and salt.  Regular washing helps slow corrosion. Do not forget to rinse under the vehicle to remove the sand and salt used on winter roads.

7.  Before you travel during the winter, have the battery and charging system checked. Many parts stores will provide this service for free.

8.  Protect yourself by having the following with you when traveling in harsh winter conditions:

• Lock de-icer
• Jumper cables
• Emergency blanket
• Flashlight and/or lightsticks
• Cell phone – keep a charged old one in the glove box -911 still works in many locations without a plan
• Bottled water
• First aid kit
• Shovel/kitty litter/traction mat
• Full fuel – keep the tank as full as possible

Keeping these ideas in mind will help make winter driving safer and, if you get stranded, may even save your life.
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Electrical problems in cars can be very difficult to locate and fix.  They can include things like dim or nonfunctioning lights, hard starting, surging acceleration, malfunctioning gauges, and check engine lights.  If the problem is intermittent, even dealer shops with specialized equipment can require the car for days to try to track the source, and will not always be successful.

Here are some steps to follow that should help with a solution.

1. Check the battery charge and charging system using a simple voltage meter.  A fully charged battery should read close to 12.6 volts for a 12 volt battery.  Anything under 12 volts indicates too low a charge. Even if the voltage is 12.6 volts there still may be a problem inside the battery. The way to test for internal battery problems is a load test.  Tools to perform a load test can typically be purchased for under $70.00.  These meters often have the ability to test the charging system as well.  A cheaper  alternative is to take the vehicle to a battery retailer as most battery shops will perform the load test for free. These shops will also often perform a charging system check for free to ensure the alternator and voltage regulator are functioning properly. If they are not willing, go to another shop that will. It is in the retailer’s best interest to perform the test as they often get a battery sale or repair job out of it.
2. Clean the battery terminals including the two battery posts and the battery cables. Coat them with a proper protectant. Vaseline was used for years but there are specialized products available.
3. Fuses need to be pulled and tested with a meter.  There should ne no resistance. Just visual inspection may easily not be enough. Replace blown fuses only with fuses of the correct rating, not a higher-rated fuse as this could create a fire hazard.
4. Check the connectors under the hood. Corrosion is more likely there as the connectors are more exposed to the elements. Sometimes just separating them and reseating them will reestablish a good connection but also look for corrosion. It often shows as a green coating or dull coloured metal contacts.
5. If the car often has a dead battery in the morning or after sitting for a while, check the door light switches. They can become sticky with dirt and age and therefore may cause interior lights to stay on. Vanity mirror lights are also often culprits. Make sure all these lights turn off consistently.
6. Last, the number ONE overlooked spot. If all the above steps have not cured the problem this easily may, especially if the car is 5 years old or older. It is the ground strap where it attaches from the battery to the car engine block and then to the chassis of the vehicle. There may easily be more than one or even two ground straps. Many times they are easy to spot because they are bare copper metal but may be insulated.  To find the end of the ground strap(s) start at the negative terminal of the battery and follow it/them until it/they attach to the engine or chassis. Put a wrench on the bolt and loosen it. If possible clean the connection area with a wire brush. If it is hard to reach you may be able to reestablish a good connection just by loosening and tightening the bolt. Do this with all the ground straps from the battery.

Fixing your own car is often easier than you think. The knowledge gained by attempting to diagnose and trying to fix it can also save you money when a shop suggests unnecessary repairs.

Best of luck. (more…)

Much has been written on improving fuel mileage. There are some things that have proven effective and some have not. Below are explanations of what to do and why, as well as things that are not generally accepted as either cost effective or proven scientifically.

What does not work?

The sales pitch or ads often have elements of the following included: “The secrets that the car and oil companies do not want you to know is the stock and trade of the magic carburetor and the super turbo vortex swirling throttle body fuel charging magnetic particle inducing fuel enhancer.” The sellers claim these super gizmos are yours for just a portion of the money that you will recover in the first few weeks of the installation. The installation can be done in minutes with no special tools or mechanical experience needed and you will continue to reap the benefits with no maintenance for the life of you car.  I have never seen one of these inventions live up to the claims.

If any of these inventions worked, the car companies would saved millions in engineering and development time and would have incredible bragging and advertising rights for fuel efficiency.  The advice I give everyone is to spend your money more wisely on the things that do work.

What does help get better mileage?

1. The first and perhaps the cheapest thing you can do is make sure your tire pressures are set to the correct values as recommended by the manufacturer for the load and speed the vehicle will be exposed to. Purchase a good quality tire gauge and check your pressures at least every other fill up if not each time. Not only will you improve the chances of getting maximum fuel economy but also you will improve tire longevity and make tire failure less likely.
2. Check your air filter. Replace it as per manufacturer’s recommendations. These will usually specify more frequent changes for dusty or other extreme driving conditions. Ensure that there are no blockages of leaves and or other debris that may hinder airflow to the engine. Restricted intake airflow means poorer mileage. These filters are easily purchased at automotive stores and easily installed by even modestly handy people. Your owner’s manual often has the part number in it.
3. Check the exhaust system for crimps and dents that may restrict exhaust gas flow out the tail pipe. That also can cause lower fuel economy and also a rough running engine.  A severe enough bent or dent can even prevent the engine from starting.
4. If your car requires 87 octane (usually called regular) fuel there is no reason to buy a higher rated fuel (premium). It will NOT improve your mileage. Check the owner’s manual to determine the correct octane rating. There are usually more fuel system cleaning chemicals in premium fuels but if regular is called for in the owner’s manual it should have enough cleaners to keep the fuel system clear.
5. Last is driving style. Hard on the throttle and hard on the brake will yield poorer efficiency. Try to time your acceleration to coincide with the next green light. On the highway more speed generally also increases fuel consumption.  The onboard computers in many new dashes can help to calculate fuel economy and can be used to experiment with driving styles.

Have any fuel saving tips?  Share them below! (more…)

Friends often ask me whether they were dealt with fairly by shops doing brake work. The question is usually brought on by charges that are added or included in the estimate. Listed below is a brief description of the brake system parts and the reasons shops often give for the extra charges. Whether or not you should have the associated work done is also outlined, so you can make an informed decision when faced with the question at the shop.

Brake System Primer:

When you depress the brake pedal a small piston pressurizes brake fluid in the brake lines and in turn causes the calipers to squeeze the brake pads against the brake rotors. Picture your  fingers squeezing a turning pie plate. The wear occurs on the brake pads as the material is worn away gradually with each application of the brakes.  On most cars the brake pads have small plates that come in contact with the rotors as they get worn down to replacement thickness and cause a squealing noise.  That is a signal to the driver that maintenance is required. There is also some wear of the steel of the rotor over time.

The Brake Job:

Replacing Pads

Unless you do a lot of mountain driving, tow a trailer or high speeds the regular quality brake pads (OEM- Original Equipment Manufacturer) will do just fine. Shops may try to sell up to semi-metallic, ceramic, dustless, anti-squeal or other types. A rule of thumb is the harder brake pad will also be harder on your rotors. Nothing-free here. But if your driving requires more than the original pads gave you go to better quality pads. They will probably not stop you any faster in ordinary driving but may easily make a difference at higher speeds or heavier loads by having better fade resistance.

Often when shops are called for an estimate, they will give you a quote for only the replacement of the brake pads. Some shops will then, when you get there, inform you that you must also replace your rotors or have them turned. Turning is shaving some metal from the rotors to take out any wobble or just to smooth the surfaces. Some shops will even say that they MUST do this or they cannot give you a warranty.  This is a ploy to make them more money – look for another shop.

Turning Rotors

Rotors typically only need to be turned for one of two reasons. The first is if you feel a pulsing in the brake pedal when you apply the brakes. Usually when lightly applying them. The pulsing may go away on harder application. The second reason is to remove deep scoring in the rotor. Rotors are more likely to warp after turning! So unless there is clear proof the rotors needed turning do NOT have them turned.

Replacing Rotors

Rotors may need to be replaced if they are worn down below the manufacturer’s minimum thickness. Typically, that should not happen until at least two sets of brake pads have been used on them. If the shop insists that they always be replaced, look for another shop.

Some good ideas to avoid getting overcharged include:

Get three estimates – ask for a detailed breakdown of charges

Ask for the old parts – shops will be more reluctant to replace good parts and or do needless work

Go to shops that are ranked highly – CAA, AAA or certified by the Better Business Bureau are all good indications of a shop’s standing

No estimate, no business – Avoid any shop that insists on starting work before the estimate or wants to charge for it.

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