Wondering when to do oil changes and what type of oil to use?  These questions have a very simple answer: Your car’s manual should detail the type and weight of oil that should be used in your car. It should also detail how far you vehicle should travel between oil changes AND how the much the maximum time should be. It will also likely list shorter times and mileages for severe driving cycles. These typically include city driving, high speed driving, trailer towing, mountain driving and similar situations that are harder on engines.

If you are unsure of when to change after reading this information, a rule of thumb is that more often is better than not often enough. Really serious car nuts have their oil chemically analyzed and many newer cars have oil service monitors that tell the driver when a change is due. You can always call the car dealer for advice.

The oil requirements may include specific brands of oil, their service ratings, their weight as well whether they are natural or synthetic. Always get an oil at or higher than the service rating listed in the manual. These oil ratings are found on the top of the can or on the label of the container. The weight of the oil is a measure of viscosity or how well it flows in various temperatures. This is usually expressed as 10W – 30W or 5W – 40W to give two examples. The lower the number, the better the oil flows and lubricates in cold temperatures. The higher the number the better the oil lubricates the engine in high temperatures. Some new synthetic oils are rated as highly as 0W – 40W. Amazing technology.

I prefer the synthetic oils to the natural refined oils as they reduce engine wear and may enable you to increase the interval between oil changes.

ALWAYS change the oil filter when you change the oil. Use OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturers’) quality filters. Avoid the cheap discount type – the savings is not worth it. Enough said.

Changing your own oil is a relatively simple procedure for most cars and if you research how to do it, you can save some money. Quick lube and oil change chains can also be a cheaper way to get the job done if you do not want to dirty your hands.

Oil is the lifeblood of your car’s engine and an oil change is a relatively cheap way of keeping it alive.

There are a number of gifts for the car enthusiast that are too neat to not consider. The following are personal favorites, or just too cool of an idea not to include!

1. Oil changer pump
   These little pumps will pump out the engine oil so you do not have to crawl under the car to pull the drain plug. Since many newer cars have the oil filter near the top of the engine, oil changes become easy. Just in case you are thinking that not all oil will be removed, you are correct. But the amount left is very small and if Mercedes dealers use these pumps, they are good enough for me. A couple of names are: Mityvac and Motive Power Exractors. These are not expensive. Most are in the 50 to 120 dollar range. Think of the savings on laundry alone!
2. Gloves
   Good automotive mechanic’s gloves are a great gift. They not only keep hands clean but also save knuckles from bruising and blood on the tools. Mechanix makes nice ones These run around 15 to 30 dollars.
3. Hoists
   If your budget is higher a car hoist may be an idea. These have become more reasonable and are available for $2000 and up. If you are still reading then you must be in love. Torin, Extreme Equipment and BendPak are selling them, among others.
4. Magazines
   Subscriptions to magazines like Hemmings, Road&Track, Car and Driver, Motor Trend and numerous others make great gifts. Prices vary but, $20 to $35 should buy a year’s subscription.
5. Car polishes and cleaners
   The list here is endless. Care for the interior and exterior is almost always needed. Many manufacturers will package Christmas bundles of products at reduced prices. A good idea to buy and put away for later gifting! Prices:$5 to $50.
6. Garage organizers
   These can take the form of tool boxes, wall units, pegboard, shelves or racks. There are some very neat products out there and many come on sale. As an example clear plastic shoe boxes came up at a local store for a buck a piece. These are GREAT for storing nuts and bolts as well as small tools. They came with lids and so keep rust at bay in my garage.
7. Models
   Many car nuts would like to a model of the car they drive or the one they would love to drive. Check hobby stores and online. They run from $10 to hundreds of dollars.
8. Fantasy drives
   There are a number of offerings that allow a driver to sample driving dream cars. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Corvette, Mercedes, Porsche, Viper and so on. Check a current copy of one of the car magazines for available offers. Prices vary vastly. Figure $500 and up.
9. Racing schools
   There are a number of racing schools that offer courses ranging form half day to week(s) in duration. Again prices vary vastly. Check online for a school close to you.
10. GPS
    For those who get lost and will not ask directions this is a great gift. Nice ones from Garmin that talk to you are now down as low as $150.
11. G Meters
    These little devices measure car performance. Acceleration, cornering and braking are given on the digital readout. These can be found online and at auto parts stores. A neat one is an application that you can download for your iPod or iPhone for about $15 instead of buying a stand alone unit for about a hundred or more.
12. Books, Posters and Videos
    Always a safe bet for car people. So many places to find these that no further explanation is needed.
13. Radar/Laser Detectors and Jammers
    If a lead foot and tickets are a problem then these will be on a wish list.  Beltronics and Escort are arguably the top two brands.

Happy shopping! (more…)

Your camper, trailer and motorhome need some proactive care to survive the winter.

The first set of measures is common to all three. That is the prevention or reduction of damage that a season (or two) of non-use will cause. This includes damage caused by freezing temperatures, moisture, rodents and other vermin.

Your summer cottage on wheels will likely have some way of holding both fresh drinking water and perhaps some way of holding grey (washing/shower) and black (sewer) water.

Starting with the fresh water, the first thing to ensure is that all the water is drained from the system. That includes all sinks, as well as the showers inside and outside (if applicable), hot water tank ( an easy one to forget) and the outside drain. Next get fresh water anti-freeze from a store that sells it for this purpose. Do not use car radiator anti-freeze, as that is deadly!  You do not want to have even the smallest amount of poisonous material left in the system when you refill it with fresh water the next time you use your RV. Follow the directions in your owner’s manual and ensure that all parts of your fresh water system get protection from freezing. Usually that means having the safe anti-freeze get pumped into all the taps, pumps, lines and fixtures.

Next, take care of the grey and black water holding systems. Here again, purchase the proper RV anti-freeze and ensure that it gets to all parts of the system.

If you have a battery, it will need care over the winter. One method is to hook up a maintenance charger to keep the battery fully charged. These are inexpensive and designed for this task (available at any auto parts outlet). If you use a regular charger you may overcharge the battery, resulting in the boiling off of battery acid and a resultant fire. Make sure the charger can NOT overcharge and is made to do this task. You could also take out the battery and store it in your heated garage. Again, it should be charged periodically or connected to a maintenance charger over the winter. Remember, a discharged battery can freeze and split the case, spilling its acid. Each battery in your RV will need protection. This is also a good time to check and clean all the electrical connections.

Shut off the propane at the tank or tanks. Most appliances leak a very small amount and there is no need to waste propane or create a potential fire hazard.

Leave the fridge and freezer doors open. You will be greeted with a great biological experiment in the spring if you do not! You may need to prop them open.

Taking all linens, towels and cushions into your house is a good idea. This applies even when your RV is stored under cover. In the northwest, the humidity is such that mold and mildew will take hold easily in the uncirculated air inside. I use a heater with a fan set on low to circulate and warm the air.

Now is the time to check the roof for potential leaks. Likely sources are seams and places where dissimilar materials meet. Inspect these seams very closely. Anywhere there are screws or vents are places where water can cause problems. Remember, even tiny leaks can cause dry rot. Roof caps (where the roof meets the sides and windows), windshield and awning need careful inspection. A good cleaning of the roof using only the proper cleaner is a good idea. An RV specialist should be able to supply you with the cleaners and sealers.

If you do not have access to a roofed storage area, a storage cover or tarp will provide additional protection against the elements. I would caution you to ensure that there is space between the tarp and the roof for air circulation to prevent damage to the roof. Be careful to not damage your roof with sharp objects. This applies especially to rubber roofs. I have successfully used soft Rubbermaid tubs with a ladder on them to keep the tarp clear of the roof. Even then, I use a  fan heater inside, being very careful to keep it away from combustible materials.

Foodstuffs need to be cleaned out. Use common sense. Paper boxes are easy for rodents and bugs to get into! Storage in plastic containers is preferable. You do not want to start a vacation having to clean and then disinfect the RV before you even start your holiday. There are many traps available for rodents and sprays to kill bugs, but if your RV is cleaned of food items the chances of a problem are significantly reduced. If you live in an area prone to rodents, there are numerous sound repellers and repellants available. Check with local RV dealers and online. University web sites seem to have good information consistently.

Leave all cupboards and doors open. This discourages rodents and makes it easier to allow airflow into all areas to prevent mildew.

Motorhomes and trailers need to have tires examined and corrected for tire pressures and damages. Inspect especially the tire sidewalls, as that is where there is often damage from rocks and other hazards. Check for broken springs, worn shocks, as well as any lights that are out. Trailers should have the hitches and wiring harnesses checked.

For winterizing motorhomes there are numerous more helpful tips in my article titled Winter car storage checklist. The same running gear advice for cars applies to motorized RV’s, campers and trailers.

Happy RVing next season! (more…)

The most cost effective things to do are: clean, clean and clean.

1. The inside should be carefully vacuumed. There are many products to fix tears and restore a new look to the plastic, leather, carpet and vinyl so get them and use them. They should pay for themselves by helping to get you a higher price, or at least one closer to your asking price. Do not forget to clean the glass!
2. Take out and leave out any mats that are worn and remove the stuff in the glove box. Leave the owner’s manual and records of services done to the car.  The longer and more detailed the records the better. Copies with your personal information blacked out will do just fine in most cases – use your judgment as to what to leave.
3. Clean out the trunk and touch up any rusty spots or worn paint.
4. The outside should be washed and waxed. Carefully try to touch up any rust spots and rock chips. Again touch up paint, wax and car wash is not expensive and you will have lots left over!  Do not forget to polish the chrome. The wheels should be cleaned to be free of brake dust and the tires should be sprayed with tire shine.
5. Under the hood you should consider having the engine bay cleaned. You can do this yourself at a car wash but you need to be careful to cover electrical components and air intakes. Failure to do so can leave you stranded there or cause electrical system problems. While there clean the battery terminals (baking soda works but do not get any inside the battery!) and apply an anti-corrosion spray or gel.

The next six things have a small cost but can make all the difference when a buyer is comparing your car to the competition.

1. Tires should have at least one half the tread left and all should be the same brand if possible. No one wants to buy a new (to them) car and then have to go out right away to buy new tires.  Installing a set of used tires or ordering tires online can make the difference between a sale and your car sitting unsold for months.
2. The exhaust system should not be noisy, if there are holes in the exhaust get it fixed.  It will only scare away potential customers or reduce what they are willing to pay.  Most muffler shops will charge as little as $50 to professionally fix an exhaust leak in a pipe or seam.
3. A fresh oil change says a lot about the fact that you cared for your car. They are not expensive to do and are a good idea as most inspection reports include the state of the oil.
4. Subscribe to The Secret Mechanic Newsletter for your free used car buying guide. Think like the buyer and do as many of the things listed there as are appropriate to the value and nature of the car you are selling. Try to have as many things as possible right on the included buyers check list.
5. Price it right. Check sources like Kelly books, Edmonds, Autotrader, Buysell, newspapers, Ebay and other online sources to determine a value. When asked, auto dealers will typically tell you a trade in value or a wholesale value. You would like to sell at the higher retail price. This is a good reason to sell your car privately and not trade it in to the dealer. There may, however, be reasons like taxes that make trading in logical and you need to determine that in light of your personal circumstances.
6. Advertise where you get the biggest exposure for the lowest cost. Kijiji, Craigslist, bulletin boards, a sign on the car (Buy one! Do NOT use a crummy piece of cardboard with a price scrawled on it. That sends the wrong message – one that says you do not care).  The Autotrader, and local newspaper classifieds are a bit more expensive but can also help spread the word about your car if the free methods above don’t get you the interest you deserve.

Happy selling! (more…)

In many years of trying to get better performance out of my cars, a few things have consistently worked well. I will start with the less costly.

A high flow air filter and cold air inlet can almost always improve airflow to the engine.  These are usually relatively easy to install and quite affordable.

However, better airflow to your engine will be more beneficial if the exhaust gases can leave freely. A low-pressure exhaust system should take care of that and will also have a good sound.

Next, fuel flow should be looked at. Sometimes bigger injectors will do the trick. Be careful to match the size of the injectors to the optimal fuel needs of the engine. Getting the biggest injectors possible can actually reduce your power. At this point, you may start looking at an engine performance chip. Be careful! Unless the chip is from a very experienced tuner, the independent reviews have shown inconsistent results. Check it out before you spend your money.

Now would be a good time to upgrade the wheels and tires.

If you are looking for still more power, then either turbo charging or supercharging may be the ticket. This gets EXPENSIVE in a hurry.  The temptation is to go for high boost and horsepower. This puts big strains on engine components that were generally not designed to withstand them. That means BIG repair bills. Check with experts to see how much boost to run. It also means that airflow, exhaust and fuel demands must be matched to the forced induction system.  Also be aware that, with the large horsepower increase, other components like the transmission and differential will probably need beefing up for longevity.

If you have come this far, then brakes and suspension upgrades are going to be required. Bigger rotors, perhaps cross drilled and vented, along with calipers with more pistons than stock, and braided brake lines will make stopping easier.  Suspension upgrades could start with performance shock absorbers, bigger roll bars and performance springs. These upgrades should be done at the same time and purchased as a package from a professional tuner or car manufacturer if they are available.

Again, these engine, brake and suspension upgrades will do little if your car has the wrong tires and wheels. So with brake and suspension upgrades, tires and wider wheels will allow you to extract the most from your car modifications.

My recommendation is that, if you improve airflow in, fuel quantity in and exhaust flow out and you have better tires and wheels, you will have reached the point at which the law of diminishing returns kicks into play and increasingly larger amounts of money will need to be spent to further increase performance significantly. If you are still not happy with your car’s performance at this stage, save your money and buy a car that has the performance you want.

Many people have poured thousands of dollars into mods, were unable to get the performance they wanted, yet also did not see a dime back of the money they had spent on the modifications when they sold the vehicle.  If you still intend on modifying your car with all of this in mind, make sure to shop around for the best price as local shops often have huge markups over the same parts online.
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There are many places to buy car parts.

Most people automatically think of going to the dealer to get their parts.  What you buy from dealers is OEM (Original Equipment Manufactured) parts. Many times these are the most expensive. However, they will also be of original quality and the dealer parts counter will have access to the latest revisions of parts. Manufacturers make changes to parts over time to improve on weaknesses and flaws. So, if the price is of secondary importance, the dealer is the place to shop.

The other places to look for parts include the auto parts shops/jobbers. Jobbers are auto parts stores that you find in the phone book or online. Here you can find replacement parts, usually at lower prices. But check all possible sources, including the dealer, for your parts. Jobber parts are often knockoffs, not made for the original manufacturer, and produced overseas. But they could also be the identical parts you would get from the dealer,  packaged  differently. Ask the seller about the part, as they often get their parts from many sources. If the same company that produces dealer parts also manufactures the jobber parts, your purchase could still be top quality, but less expensive.

Generally, I would recommend you not purchase the following at the dealers unless you have a specific reason to do so:

• Tires
• Windshield wipers and fluid
• Brake parts
• Shock absorbers
• Spark plugs
• Belts
• Hoses
• Filters – oil, air
• Light bulbs
• Ignition wires
• Antifreeze
• Waxes, polishes, cleaners, etc.

This is not a complete list, so you need to check all sources for what is available for your car and costs.

I would recommend you go online and search for the part you need to check price and availability. Always check several sources and then check with local auto parts suppliers. That way you are less likely to overpay!

Certain parts are only available from your dealer and these usually include body and interior parts but even some of these may be purchased elsewhere. Look to save.

I have left getting your parts from auto wreckers to near the end of the article because they may not be your best option. My experience has been that the wreckers typically charge one half of the retail price dealers charge and that is for parts that are obviously used. What is unknown is how long they have left in their useable lifespan for this price. New jobber parts can often be gotten for the same price wreckers charge.

A final note: If the part will require extensive time on your part to install, you may wish to install the one with the longest warranty. The length of the warranties may vary so shop around. Make sure to ask if the part is OEM to avoid fitment problems.

With these tips you will save money, time and keep your vehicle running smoothly.
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Tires are tires, right?  That’s what many people walk into their local tire store thinking, and often walk out paying hundreds more than they could have gotten the same tires for with a bit of planning.

When I needed tires, I called around all of the local tire stores first and was quoted from $220-250 per tire, plus mounting, balancing and other fees.  The total would be well over $1,000 for the set of tires I wanted.  Convinced that I could find a better deal, I turned to the internet and found a variety of tire stores advertising reasons to choose them over their competitors: “we have the best price, trust us” and “free lugs with every set of wheels” were some of the pitches that caused me to raise an eyebrow.

After reading quite a few reviews of tire stores online, one kept standing out as having repeat customers, which is a pretty good sign to me that the store has done it’s job right.  I checked out the website and found quite a bit more than just tire prices, I found honest reviews of the latest tires from Bridgestone, Pirelli, Hankook and others as well as ratings of tires from thousands of people who had driven on almost every tire out there, often for months before reviewing them.

In a twist of fate, the tires I had gone to the website to purchase ended up being rated fairly poorly, so I checked out the top rated tires in my segment and I’m glad I did – I ended up choosing a completely different manufacturer with better tread wear, noise and performance ratings, for the same price (well, within $10 anyway).

With the new tire in my cart, I proceeded to checkout - I was presented with options for which warehouse to ship the tires from, complete with estimates of how many days and how much shipping each would be. I liked that the total was shown up front, unlike some other stores which hide the taxes and levies until the very end. I chose to wait a bit longer to save another $30, but they ended up coming in just over a week to my house anyway - not bad considering the local shops were booked solid for two weeks.

In the end, I got my tires delivered to my door for about $400 cheaper than the best price I could find at a local shop - that savings includes state taxes, shipping, and having them mounted and balanced, so I really am comparing apples to apples here.

So who exactly is it that’s rated so highly and offers all this information with their übercheap prices?  Click here to find out, you can come back and thank me after.
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Short Term Storage

If your car is to be stored for shorter periods of time, for example 2 to 6 weeks, then the list of things to do to protect it is relatively short.

-It would be wise to start and run the car at least once a week, preferably around the block to warm and circulate the fluids in the engine, transmission and differential. This also allows the brakes to move and will relocate the tires to a new spot.  Since a very large part of engine wear happens on start up when oil has drained away from moving parts, the more often the car starts the more likely it is that parts will have a film of lubrication left on them.

-Changing to synthetic oil is a good plan, as it tends to provide better protection to your engine.  The extra cost is worth it.

-Another good idea is to invest in a battery trickle charger. These little chargers have auto-shutoff circuits so they will not overcharge the battery but will prevent total discharge of the cells, which will shorten the life of the battery by a large margin.

Long  Term Storage

Long term is considered about 6 weeks and longer with the car not running.  For long-term storage you should consider the following:

• Exterior – Wash and wax the exterior prior to storage.
• Interior – Clean the interior. Place a desiccant and/or heat source (such as a trouble light) in the car to keep humidity low. However, the heat also attracts rodents.
• Rodent repellants – Rodents seem to love to take up residence in stored cars and can cause serious damage. Ultrasonic repellers seem to help keep rodents away. Insects are also pests that can cause damage. Check with a local pest control expert for advice.
• Wheels off ground – Take the load off the tires and suspension by putting the car up on jack stands. The emergency brake should be off and the car in Neutral for standard transmissions and Park for automatics.
• Oil change – use a fresh filter and oil to remove corrosive elements
• Oil the cylinders – Pull the spark plug from each cylinder and squirt a teaspoon of oil into each of them. It is important to check with the manufacturer for the proper procedures to turn the engine over without damaging the ignition system or injuring yourself! After oiling loosely refit the spark plugs.
  • Before trying to start the engine again, remove the plugs and turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil again, and then install the plugs and start the motor. Again, ensure you follow the proper procedures as severe injury can result from the high voltage systems in newer car ignitions
• Battery – disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a battery tender to keep the battery fully charged.
• Car cover – There are dozens of car covers on the market. Purchase one only after reading what they protect against. Some are only for UV protection and may not be waterproof. Others may trap moisture and promote rust and corrosion.
• Vacuum seals – These are the ultimate car covers that seal the car from the outside world. Check the claims and guarantee carefully to see if they are right for your situation.

Following these steps will help your pride-and-joy roll smoothly out of the garage and back on the streets. (more…)

Many people get stuck and sometimes hurt in the fall and winter because they have failed to plan for the seasonal changes that occur. Here are most, if not all, of the items to check in and on your car before the weather turns from balmy to frosty.

1.  Windshield washer fluids need to be rated for below freezing temperatures. This is easy to spot on the bottles. Generally the pink ones are for summer driving and the blue ones are for the winter. They also usually have a rated temperature; the blue ones listed down to well below freezing (usually -40 Celsius or Fahrenheit).  Check the predicted lowest temperature you are likely to encounter and purchase accordingly.

2.  Wiper blades should be replaced regularly. Six to twelve months is usual. You may wish to buy “snowblades” which have rubber boots around the blade holders. These do not load up with ice as readily and therefore provide better visibility.

3.  Oil changes should be considered, especially if your car is older and uses a higher viscosity oil in the summer. These summer oils do not flow well in cold temperatures and will make starting your car harder. Winter oils are lower viscosity-typically zero to 30 weight. Summer oils are 30 to 50 weight range.

4.  Tires should also match the conditions you will be driving through. If you expect some light snowy conditions for part of your winter, all season tires are a good choice. They are not as noisy on the road as full snow tires and can be left on the car all year round. If, however, you expect months of heavier snowfall then full mud and snow (M&S) rated tires are really what you need. These tires wear out more quickly on dry or wet roads but provide superior traction and stopping power on snow and ice. Be aware that chains are required for winter travel in some locations so plan and purchase accordingly.

5.  Exterior lights need to be checked. Ensure they all work including high beams and four way flashers.

6.  Protect the outside of your car with a good coat of wax. This saves the paint and makes it easier to remove road grime and salt.  Regular washing helps slow corrosion. Do not forget to rinse under the vehicle to remove the sand and salt used on winter roads.

7.  Before you travel during the winter, have the battery and charging system checked. Many parts stores will provide this service for free.

8.  Protect yourself by having the following with you when traveling in harsh winter conditions:

• Lock de-icer
• Jumper cables
• Emergency blanket
• Flashlight and/or lightsticks
• Cell phone – keep a charged old one in the glove box -911 still works in many locations without a plan
• Bottled water
• First aid kit
• Shovel/kitty litter/traction mat
• Full fuel – keep the tank as full as possible

Keeping these ideas in mind will help make winter driving safer and, if you get stranded, may even save your life.
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Electrical problems in cars can be very difficult to locate and fix.  They can include things like dim or nonfunctioning lights, hard starting, surging acceleration, malfunctioning gauges, and check engine lights.  If the problem is intermittent, even dealer shops with specialized equipment can require the car for days to try to track the source, and will not always be successful.

Here are some steps to follow that should help with a solution.

1. Check the battery charge and charging system using a simple voltage meter.  A fully charged battery should read close to 12.6 volts for a 12 volt battery.  Anything under 12 volts indicates too low a charge. Even if the voltage is 12.6 volts there still may be a problem inside the battery. The way to test for internal battery problems is a load test.  Tools to perform a load test can typically be purchased for under $70.00.  These meters often have the ability to test the charging system as well.  A cheaper  alternative is to take the vehicle to a battery retailer as most battery shops will perform the load test for free. These shops will also often perform a charging system check for free to ensure the alternator and voltage regulator are functioning properly. If they are not willing, go to another shop that will. It is in the retailer’s best interest to perform the test as they often get a battery sale or repair job out of it.
2. Clean the battery terminals including the two battery posts and the battery cables. Coat them with a proper protectant. Vaseline was used for years but there are specialized products available.
3. Fuses need to be pulled and tested with a meter.  There should ne no resistance. Just visual inspection may easily not be enough. Replace blown fuses only with fuses of the correct rating, not a higher-rated fuse as this could create a fire hazard.
4. Check the connectors under the hood. Corrosion is more likely there as the connectors are more exposed to the elements. Sometimes just separating them and reseating them will reestablish a good connection but also look for corrosion. It often shows as a green coating or dull coloured metal contacts.
5. If the car often has a dead battery in the morning or after sitting for a while, check the door light switches. They can become sticky with dirt and age and therefore may cause interior lights to stay on. Vanity mirror lights are also often culprits. Make sure all these lights turn off consistently.
6. Last, the number ONE overlooked spot. If all the above steps have not cured the problem this easily may, especially if the car is 5 years old or older. It is the ground strap where it attaches from the battery to the car engine block and then to the chassis of the vehicle. There may easily be more than one or even two ground straps. Many times they are easy to spot because they are bare copper metal but may be insulated.  To find the end of the ground strap(s) start at the negative terminal of the battery and follow it/them until it/they attach to the engine or chassis. Put a wrench on the bolt and loosen it. If possible clean the connection area with a wire brush. If it is hard to reach you may be able to reestablish a good connection just by loosening and tightening the bolt. Do this with all the ground straps from the battery.

Fixing your own car is often easier than you think. The knowledge gained by attempting to diagnose and trying to fix it can also save you money when a shop suggests unnecessary repairs.

Best of luck. (more…)